After the heat of Mahaba Beach we decide to drive to the milder climate of the Usambara Mountains.
The drive to it is going well, good road and barely any checkpoints. Milady also performs seemingly good. We can usually drive at about 80-90 km/h and keep the 50 km signs monitored to avoid unwanted conversations with the police. However, we are held twice because of “unauthorized modification” of the suspension. It is clearly time for Christmas, now that the backlog should be caught up in fines from the rest of the year. Fortunately, we managed to talk us out with the story about the car in Tabora where this adjustment, two wooden blocks between the spring hangers, is provided. We offer the agent to call with Jogesh. Both times the officer silences and we are able to continue.
The Usambara Mountains are a challenge for Milady, as well as for me, the driver. The first part is a steep, winding tarmac road that all together takes more time than Carmen, our Garmin has calculated. It is almost four o’clock when we see that the rest of the road is unpaved, another 60 km. Therefore, we stay close to Lushoto, the Irente Farm Lodge. A beautiful place in the middle of the rainforest with good facilities and a shop where we buy bread. We are the only campers and actually the only guests …
The next morning we get up in time and drive on. The road is challenging to say the least, sometimes really bad stretches where clearly the rain has washed away parts. The views across the valley are impressive with some huge cliff next to the road. We enjoy but are also pleased that yesterday we no longer have made this trip, we ultimately drive about 3.5 hours!
At Mambo Viewpoint Lodge we are welcomed by Herman, the Dutch owner, later we also meet Marion, his wife. We again get a beautiful spot overlooking the valley and are guided around the site by the receptionist. The views are breathtaking and he tells us that you can even see Mount Kilimanjaro in clear weather.
He tells us about the community projects which Herman and Marion started, especially education, health and agriculture, that way they give back the proceeds from the lodge and campsite to the area.
The next day we go for a walk with the guide Ali in the rainforest. A very special experience, we see all kinds of trees and plants that we know as houseplants as huge trees and shrubs. Ali tells us that the vegetation is somewhat boldy, the real rain has yet to fall in the coming months. At the waterfall we see what he means, there is only very little water falling… The walk takes about four hours, a little longer than the announced max. 2 hours, but yes, it is beautiful and we are young (at heart) .
On our way back we visit a local market and buy some pots.
The next morning we break up to leave early, we pack the car, fold the tent on the roof and get in.
Start the car … no result, a dead battery! And now I remember that duringthe last travel days I have seen a flickering red charge indicator. Herman drags the car up the mountain and from there I can start the car by driving downhill. I run the engine and measure the charging current, nothing! That means a faulty alternator! Fortunately, here again help is at hand, Herman makes a few phone calls and soon a pikipiki with a replacement alternator is on its way from Lushoto to Mambo. Together with Ali and the pikipiki driver we replace the alternator and test the charging. Meanwhile, Herman has connected the battery charger so that tomorrow we can at least leave. When everything is reconnected a huge thunderstorm breaks loose, we take refuge in the reception building and enjoy the fire which Marion has ignited.
In the morning we pack up early again and go … Unfortunately, the car will not start again, apparently the battery was charged too little. Now Ali pulls us up the mountain and I start again by driving down, luckily Milady always starts easily! We leave and take the slightly less challenging road to Lushoto, also unpaved but less potholes. Just beyond Lushoto the accelerator isn’t working anymore and I think about an empty fuel tank, but later it turns out to be a broken lever of the throttle cable. I fix it with a piece of steel strip and some wire, and we can move on. Later we find a workshop (with a sister Milady) where the lever is welded again.
Meanwhile, I’ve checked the battery and I note that the “new” dynamo is doing fine.
That night we sleep in Moshi at the foot of Kilimanjaro.[:]