On the road to Lusaka

After our visit to the orphans project in Zambezi we left for Lusaka, capital of Zambia. Along the way we have “just” done Kafue National Park.
That “just” is obviously meant cynical. The route we had planned to Kafue avoided the bad road that we took earlier to Zambezi. It all started well, asphalt roads without potholes from Zambezi to Kasempa Turnoff.


Even after that, the road turned out to be fine up to Kasempa where we stopped at the petrol station. Thar appeared to have no diesel, that is not in the pump itself. We were able to buy diesel fuel however in 20 liter containers, 240 kwatcha, we did agree on that, normally we bought diesel at kwatcha 8.59 per liter. When we wanted to drive off the price was suddenly dropped to 210 kwatcha, but we still did not agree with that, we still had enough fuel in the tank and also 40 liter in the jerrycans on the roof.
The road after Kasempa turned out to be of lesser quality, well, downright poor dirt road. Lots of corrugation and countless potholes, Milady had to endure  severely.


According to Tracks4Africa you can spend the night at the gate of Kafue in the scout camp. So when we reached the entry road, much later than expected because of the bad road, we looked into other accommodation, but that proved unattainable at this time. So, wham, we took the path to Kafue Northgate. That turned out really a challenge, luckily it was dry, but otherwise the path looked more like a dry riverbed than a motorable road.

When we arrive at the gate it is almost dark and we are pleased that the scouts/rangers, let us camp at their site. We put up the tent and cook our supper on our Coleman petrol stove, tasty pasta with mushrooms and tomato sauce.
The next morning, September 12, we’re going into the park early.


On the fields the dew has not yet evaporated and we see a herd of buffalo in the fog.


The further we drive into the park the hotter it gets, so the animals find shelter for the day.


 Farther we get to the Kafue River where hippos and crocodiles are chilling in the water.

Kafue is a nice park, with an unfortunate lot of the tsetse flies, we drive with our windows closed drive and even then they find their way in to bite us.

The site we have chosen is just outside the park on the Kafue River, it is expensive indeed, $ 25 pp and the food had to be paid in USD.
We are the only guests and can choose the best place.


The toilets are fine, clean and with hot and cold shower.


In the evening we spoil ourselves with a nice meal with a bottle of chilly South African Chenin Blanc, delicious.


We acquainted with Patrick, a tour guide related to the site. He chatters about his experiences and recommends to us in any case to go to South Luangwa NP towards Tanzania.
On September 13 we leave, after the nice breakfast at the restaurant, early in the morning to Lusaka.


All main road and halfway in Mumbwa we again fill Milady with diesel fuel at the normal price per liter.

In Lusaka we drive to the Lusaka Backpackers that also offer camping facilities according T4A, which turns out not to be so, but they can register us at the Wanderers Camping.


We drive there and have a place alongside the Landy Lady, a Frenchwoman, Maya, who turns out to speak perfect English. She is pretty much based in South Africa and does some work on the road, but must frequently leave the country considering her visa. This is one of her permanent alternate addresses.


The camp is fine with good facilities, wifi, hot and cold water, a kitchen that we could use, a small restaurant with limited menu, quite good to stay for a couple of days.


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