From the capital Amman we travel east and north, east of the city the desert begins with some beautiful desert castles and a watery oasis in Azraq. North of Amman we visit the ancient Roman city of Jerash and some other important historical sites.
Our journey east and north of Amman.
More details of our trip at Sonja’s Polarsteps.
Castles of the East
East of Amman there is a lot of desert, flat, extinct desert. In the distant past, camel caravans traveled through here to transport spices and fragrances to and from Yemen and Oman. The castles in this desert are also remnants of that time and are often reminiscent of the caravanserai that we have already visited in Turkey, Georgia and Armenia.
Qasr Al Harranah
A simple and functional desert castle is the Qasr Al Harranah. From afar it is visible in the flat desert and from up close it is strongly reminiscent of a caravanserai, a resting place for camels and their caravans.
Qasr Amra
Amra Castle, a little further away, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The castle owes this to the exceptionally well-preserved frescoes. Almost all ceiling parts and walls are decorated with colorful frescoes. The frescoes tell different stories, such as hunting scenes, professions and some naked women.
Azraq
In Azraq we find an overnight stay in the parking lot of the Arzaq Lodge. We join the guests of the lodge who have their evening meal here. In the parking lot of the lodge there is an old Land Rover that is unfortunately no longer used.
The town is a typical transit town with small shops and workshops. The nature reserve has seen better days, but we did spot this grey heron.
Qasr Hallabat
On the way back to the west we visit our last desert castle Al Hallabat, dating from the second and third centuries AD. Later, around the eighth century, the complex was expanded by the Umayyads. They also built a mosque to the left of the castle. The walls have been almost completely restored and so we get a clear picture of what it was like. At the right rear of the fort there is another room with a mosaic floor. About 2 kilometers east of the castle we visit Hammam as-Sarah, a small bathhouse that belonged to the castle.
The North in a day
The first meeting with Dergham and Narina
We find a place to stay overnight in a forest/park near Jerash. Along the way I was approached by Dergham, he also owns a Land Rover Defender and would like to meet us. He briefly consults with his wife, Narina, and an hour later they are standing next to us, with a bottle of whiskey and lots of stories. We cook a stew together in the Dutch Oven and agree to visit them at their home in Amman.
Jerash
One of the most beautiful historic cities in Jordan is Jerash. Of course it is different from Petra, but the enormous Roman/Greek city can rival Rome and Athens.
This city has remained very well intact, so you really get a good idea of what the city used to look like. The route starts at Hadrian’s Arch, an impressive triumphal arch built in honor of Emperor Hadrian’s visit in 129 AD. The ‘real’ visit to the city begins at the Zuidpoort. We walk on to the Forum, a large oval square at the beginning of the Cardo, the main street of old Jerash. The square was built in the first century AD and is no less than 80 by 90 meters long. The Forum is surrounded by 160 large columns. From here we have a beautiful view of the Zeus Temple. Next to it is the South Theater, the largest theater in Jerash. This amphitheater has more than 3000 seats. We were surprised by the performance of local bagpipers in costume (see Sonja’s Polarsteps). Later we visit the temple of Artemis with its striking high columns. This temple was built in tribute to Artemis, the patron god of Jerash. It used to be the most important building in the city. We walk back via the main street, the Cardo Maximus. This 600 meter long road runs straight through the city. Along the way we admire the Nymphaeum. This special structure used to serve as the city’s public fountain. The water flowed over the facade into the large bath at the bottom.
Umm Qais
Umm Qais is the northernmost historic city in Jordan. At the archaeological site you have a beautiful view over the Sea of Tiberias/Galilee and the Golan Heights. After Jerash, this site was less impressive, although the construction method with black lava stone is distinctive.
Ajloun
In Ajloun we pay a short visit to the castle from the 12th century, built by a cousin of Saladin.
While driving out of the parking lot, Milady hits the back of a stationary car. Fortunately, we see no damage and want to continue driving. Unfortunately, a police officer witnesses this ‘accident’ and Gert Jan has to go to the police station. Even if no damage has been found, the issue is being taken very seriously as the rental car owners must be informed. After half an hour, 2 French tourists enter the police station and the official draws up a report of the event.
Everything has to do with the insurance and deposit of the rental car. Other men in uniform also show up and… to make a long story short: after an hour and a half we can leave, without a fine.