On December 2023 we are on our way from Taif to the south of Saudi Arabia, we want to go to Farasan Island. On the way the engine stops, so big problems. We let ourselves be brought back to Taif by a tow truck. A first diagnosis is made there and it turns out that we cannot be helped here. Another tow truck takes us to the Saudi-Jordan border (1,200 km), we are towed across the border by a helpful Jordanian, then a tow truck to Amman (another 350 km). In Amman we know a good mechanic who makes a quick diagnosis and has everything repaired the next day. We can continue our travels.
Our travels in Northern Saudi Arabia and Jordan
At the end of this blog a video summarizing our journey on the back of a tow truck…
Taif
On the way, we have just met a Saudi family who invites us home, the engine starts to make more and more noise. There is also a lot of white and black smoke coming out of the exhaust, we know that this is wrong.
We park the car and father and son Rakan arrange a tow truck to take us back to Taif. Unfortunately, the family visit will not take place.
After half an hour the tow truck arrives and we are on our way, back to Taif.
When we are almost at the city, still 14 km to go, we hear a huge BANG. The right rear tire of the tow truck is blown.
The driver consults by phone and a little later we drive at walking pace, with the hazard lights on, on the hard shoulder of the highway, on to Taif. When we arrive at the garage, a good diesel mechanic according to our driver, it turns out to be closed on Fridays. After some phone calls we get permission from the owner to spend the night in front of the garage, he will look at the car early tomorrow.
After a tense night, restless because of the street noise, but especially because of the uncertainty about the condition of the engine, we get up at 7 am and have breakfast. Moments later, Shehab, the Pakistani owner of the garage, is able to make the diagnosis. With 3 colleagues he bends over the faltering engine, it still wants to start, but with a lot of smoke. The valve cover opens, restarts and a lot of oil splashes around, but there seems to be nothing wrong with the valves. The conclusion is that it needs to be deeper in the engine. The head has to be removed and perhaps a valve or cylinder is broken.
Unfortunately, here in Saudi Arabia they don’t have any parts for this old Land Rover. The only Land Rovers driving around here are new Discoveries, Range Rovers and the occasional New Defender.
I investigate whether it is possible to send parts from the Netherlands. Shehab indicates that it is uncertain which parts I need and that it would be better to order a whole exchange engine. With the help of the Land Rover Prikkers on Facebook, an engine is quickly found (costs from € 1,500 excl. VAT and excluding transport costs). Unfortunately, the transport in particular appears to be an obstacle, if it succeeds at all, it will take at least a week before the engine can be in Saudi.
After some deliberation, we decide to travel on to Amman, Jordan. In November we were very well helped with replacing the turbo and Dergham, our Defender friend in Amman, is sure that a 300TDI engine can also be found. Shehab arranges a tow truck for us.
On the way to Jordan
The car won’t start, so Milady is pushed to the tow truck and towed onto the back with the winch.
At 14:00 we are on our way to the Saudi-Jordanian border, a drive of about 1,200 km. We can sit next to the driver, the Indian Jiyas, in the cab, which is quite nice because he also speaks some English. The ride goes smoothly, every 2 hours the driver stops for coffee, a meal or to refuel. At 1 o’clock in the morning he finds a parking space where we can sleep for a few hours, Jiyas in his cabin and we in Milady.
At 7 o’clock we leave again, we still have about 500 km to go. With the necessary stops, we finally arrive at the border at 14.30.
We ask permission to drive the tow truck onto the border area, because the car will not start. That is allowed, but a little later it turns out that Jiyas does not have a passport with him and has to leave the area. He drops our Milady just before the entrance gate to the border area, we settle with him (SAR 2,000 = € 500 for about 1,200 km) and he goes back on the road.
We fix the tow rope at the front of the car and try to get a tow across the border. That fails a few times, but eventually, with some persuasion from Sonja, we find a Jordanian driver who is willing to drag us across the border. He is still simmering that it shouldn’t take too long, he is in a hurry to get to Amman.
Fortunately, the border formalities are not too bad, on the Saudi side we are done in a good half hour and the Jordanian procedures take about 45 minutes. We say goodbye to our friendly helpers and park Milady on the side of the road, just past the border post.
Dergham has now arranged for a Jordanian tow truck to be on its way to the border. Through his live location we can see where he is, about 2 hours from the border.
Fortunately, we are entertained by the police officers at the border. They are very interested in our travels and adventures. One of the men speaks good English, so that’s also a stroke of luck, our Arabic is still a bit minimal.
When the tow truck arrives, it turns out that the driver has taken a buddy with him, so the cab is occupied. We can sit in our own car. Not really a good idea, but the officers also say that this is not a problem and so we go on our way. We stop a few more times to withdraw money, unfortunately that doesn’t work, wrong bank I think.
At 2.30 am we arrive in Amman, at Faysal’s garage, we push Milady aside and open the roof. Just a few hours of sleep.
Diagnosis and repair
At 8.30 am Faysal is ready and we see Dergham again, a pleasant reunion. Miraculously, the engine starts immediately. Faysal suspects that the starter motor is broken and that something is wrong with the turbo.
Together with Dergham we go into the Industrial Area of Amman and find a workshop where the starter motor is taken care of. Half an hour later and 10 JOD (=€14) poorer, the starter motor is working again and Faysal can reinstall it.
Starting is now super easy again, as I was used to. With the hoses off the turbo, it soon becomes clear that it is really broken. The oil runs out in a stream.
Faysal knows a place where he can find a good overhauled turbo. In the meantime we go to Narina, Dergham’s wife, for breakfast. Narina is very happy to see us again, after all, we have been able to stay with them for a few days before. She goes the extra mile and serves us a delicious Jordanian breakfast.
When we return to Faysal’s garage after an hour, we hear Milady’s engine running at full speed. The new turbo has been fitted and there is nothing wrong with the engine.
Faysal shows me the old turbo, no wonder it didn’t work properly anymore (see video).
Dergham and I take a test drive and Milady drives fine again. Only she still smokes terribly, the defective turbo has leaked liters of oil into the exhaust, which still has to burn. That will take a while, Faysal tells us when we get back to the garage. He also says that the engine has had to endure a lot. Perhaps there is a little more play on the pistons and the piston rods may be bent a bit. No problem according to him, after all, the engine still runs fine.
We still go to the parts store to buy new shock absorbers all around (Terrafirma Expedition) and new raised coil springs for the front. We deliver them to Faysal, who will assemble them the next morning. I have to be with him between 10 and 11, then it’s done.
When I arrive at the garage the next morning, just after 11 o’clock, Milady is already outside. The job is already done. Faysal’s bill: JOD 250, I give him JOD 300 (€ 420, including the turbo) which he accepts after some insistence from me.
Back on the road
After this interlude we stay an extra day with Dergham and Narina. What lovely people they are, they welcomed us with open arms, gave us their bed for us and pampered us with good advice and especially delicious food.
On Thursday we leave for Saudi Arabia, the car is running as usual and we are confident about the coming kilometers.
We make another stop at the Royal Car Museum of Amman, a must for anyone visiting the city. The cars on display are largely from the private collection of the late King Hussein and all look beautiful.
At 14:00 we are at the border and an hour and a half later we are on the Saudi side, this time the checks were not too bad.
At 18:00 we find a place for the night behind a sports field near the town of Al Qurayyat.