When we travel back through Georgia on our way to Turkey, it is full summer. Temperatures in the lower areas are well above 30 °C, but in the Caucasus, in the north of the country, it is much more pleasant. We visit Tbilisi, the capital, in the heat, and then quickly flee into the mountains to enjoy the beautiful landscapes, the beautiful off-road tracks and of course the pleasant temperatures.
The trip we made through Georgia after the summer of 2023 (light green, dark green is the trip before the summer).
Tbilisi
On our first trip through Georgia (parts 1.1 and 1.2) we skipped Tbilisi. Now we decide to rent a B&B in the city for a few days.
[freely adapted from Sonja’s story on Polar Steps]
We visit the capital Tbilisi for two days, one of the oldest capitals in Europe. It has been the cultural, political and economic center of Georgia for fifteen centuries. In the heart of the city lies historic Old Tbilisi, which was built during the early Middle Ages. We will stay here for 2 nights in Lali’s Guest House.
Old Tbilisi’s main attraction is its colorful domed 17th-century baths. We have no need to visit these sulfur baths. With 35 degrees outside we are already warm enough.
We wander through the cobbled streets and alleys of old Tbilisi and see Georgian Orthodox churches, Armenian churches, Catholic churches, a mosque and two synagogues.
With the walk from IZI travel, we further discover the city. We visit, among others, the Sameba Cathedral, the monumental statue of the Mother of Georgia, the botanical garden, the imposing Narikala Fortress and the modern Peace Bridge over the Mtkvari River.
In the Usakhelouri restaurant we enjoy local Georgian cuisine.
Kazbegi NP, the Military Highway
[freely adapted from Sonja’s story on Polar Steps]
Kvemo Aranisi
We drive to Kazbegi NP via the Military Highway. Along the way we will see the Monument of 300 Aragvians (or 300 Aragveli) is dedicated to the warriors from the Aragvi Valley at the Battle of Krtsanisi in 1795. They fought against the invading Persian army, which took the capital and destroyed most of Tbilisi .
Crazy holy spot
Further on we stop at the ‘Crazy Holy Spot’. The statue depicts Sulkhan-Saba Orbeliani, a famous 17th-century writer and diplomat who was born in Tandzia in southern Georgia and traveled to the Vatican to seek help for King Vakhtang, the founder of Tbilisi.
Sno
Before we reach Kazbegi, we take a break from the Military Highway to visit Sno. This small mountain village is best known for its mineral water springs. We visit the village to see the ‘Gigantic Sculptures’. It is a collection of a dozen larger-than-life stone heads spread across a rolling field. Each statue carries the profile of one of Georgia’s most beloved national poets. We read that the artist wants to make 500 copies of these images 😉 No time frame was mentioned!
Stepantsminda
After a day’s drive of about 150 km from Tbilisi we arrive at the Orthodox Church of Gergeti. We find a beautiful overnight spot with a view of Mount Kazbek, one of the highest and most iconic mountains in the Caucasus, located on the border between Georgia and Russia. The summit is 5047 meters above sea level. Georgians call the mountain Mkinvari which means glacier or iceberg.
Next to us are Marianne and Willem Jan, a young Dutch couple traveling in Georgia, together with their dog Simba. They previously volunteered in a refugee camp on Lesbos for 2 years. They tell their story with great passion and we are very impressed. In the evening around a fire we exchange more stories. Before we say goodbye to each other in the morning, Willem Jan receives a crash course in tire repair from Gert Jan.
This was another meeting you will never forget!
Dariali complex
Visit to the Dariali complex, located in the narrow Dariali gorge near the Tergi (Terek) River, at an altitude of 1300 meters above sea level and just one kilometer from the Georgian-Russian border. Construction of the Dariali Monastery began in 2005. It was partially completed in 2011 and opened by Ilia II, the spiritual leader of the Georgian Orthodox Church of Georgia. The complex consists of several buildings. The main church of the complex is the Church of the Archangels St. Michael and St. Gabriel. The original plan was to eventually build 12 different churches.
Trusso valley
We drive via an off-road road to the Trusso valley, where we want to spend the night. To our surprise we see a Dutch overlander standing by the river. What seems? They are René and Heidi, with whom we have already had contact online. What a beautiful coincidence that we meet each other live here 🙏🏼Exchanging stories with other Overlanders is always a joy to recognize. We cook and eat together and after a final ‘Chacha’ we go to sleep 🥰.
The next day we explore the Trusso valley with Milady. A beautiful valley with mineral-rich rocks, deserted villages, a monastery and an old castle.
We take a lunch break at the monastery. When paying, you can decide for yourself what you think it’s worth. We try to have a chat with the monk, but unfortunately his English is just as limited as our Georgian.
We will soon find out that he is the ‘boss’ here😉 We drive back to the Military Highway via the same off-road road to continue our journey towards Tusheti NP.
The Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument
We will make another stop at the Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument, built in 1983 to celebrate continued friendship between Georgia and the Soviet Union. We wonder whether that friendship is still politically relevant…
The Abano Pass and Tusheti NP
[Sonja’s story on Polar Steps]
Day 1
Today we drive the Abano Pass, the road from Pshaveli to Omalo, the largest village in Tusheti. This road is considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world. The pass is located deep in the beautiful mountains of the Caucasus and is known as a “death road” due to the many fatal accidents. Despite my reservations, Gert Jan convinced me to take this pass. Finally, he is an experienced off-road driver and I know that he drives very carefully and will not take unnecessary risks. 70 km of dirt road, steep slopes, sharp hairpin bends that take you up to 2800 meters and no guardrails as you look at almost vertical slopes next to Milady, lives up to the reputation of this road.
We have beautiful views, pass several waterfalls and enjoy this exciting ride. What I find most exciting is the confrontation with oncoming traffic because the road is very narrow and there are only limited opportunities to pass each other. We arrive in Omalo in the late afternoon and spend the night on a meadow on top of a mountain top. Tomorrow we will explore the area further!
Day 2
Today we further explore the Tusheti NP. Along the way we fill up with water at a natural spring. Our first stop is in Dartlo at an altitude of about 2000 m. It is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful villages of Tusheti. This village was completely restored in 2012. We stroll through the narrow streets, houses with slate roofs and balconies with wood carvings and various defensive towers. There are also several guest houses and restaurants.
Enough reason for us to enjoy the local cuisine in Pirimze restaurant. After lunch we look for a place to spend the afternoon quietly and do the laundry. We find a beautiful (overnight) place near the river in Girevi and take the time to relax in this beautiful environment. The cows also come by and make their way through the river. Later in the afternoon we receive a visit from Amir, an Israeli boy on a walking tour in Tusheti. We have an interesting conversation about life in Israel and agree to meet again there.
Day 3
We leave early for the Abano pass. We take two days to get back to civilization. We continue to be amazed by nature! We find an overnight stay near the river.
Day 4
Before we start driving again, Gert Jan comes to the rescue of a Spanish couple. They have a dead battery and a weak tire. Fortunately, we have everything on board to help 😉 and they can continue. The Abano pass back feels less scary to me than the way there. Still, I don’t mind driving on an asphalt road again in a while. Along the pass we are occasionally reminded of the victims who died here. There are also some bottles of drinks and glasses at their memorial site 😲 Special! When we cross the pass, water buffalos suddenly cross the road.
The video on YouTube
The Abano Pass and Tusheti National Park – a challenge turned into an unforgettable adventure. This trip tested our skills, forged our bonds and left us with memories that will last a lifetime.
Afterwards it turns out that the most dangerous pass in the world was easy for us to ride. The road is narrow and unpaved and passing oncoming traffic is sometimes a challenge, but we found driving over this pass no problem, especially in the summer season when the road is dry.
Tianeti
[freely adapted from Sonja’s story on Polar Steps]
Finally we drive to Tianeti to do some shopping. Here we meet Daniël, a young Dutchman who has been living in the mountains here with his family since last year and has started a campsite (Story Farm). He invites us to spend the night with them. We received such a hospitable welcome from Esther and their 5 children. Esther has prepared a delicious stew of vegetables with quinoa, cheese and salad and we can join us. We are fine with a glass of homemade Amber wine. They introduce us to the world of homeschooling that they offer their children. An interesting conversation! When it is time for bed, Gert Jan proposes to Louise (almost 3 years old) to read a book. Bonus grandpa Gert Jan is delighted😉 This is another meeting with a golden edge🥰.
As we leave, we hear a rattling sound behind Milady’s right. Upon inspection by Gert Jan, the shock absorber appears to be partially loose. Milady has clearly suffered from the off-road experience of the past few days. At the car wash where we clean Milady, there are helpful people who also speak English. Through them we come into contact with Koba. He takes us to his house to fix Milady. Even though he doesn’t speak a word of English, he manages to fix the shock absorber together with Gert Jan. While we are there, we are offered tea, coffee and fruit by Mari, Koba’s niece. After an hour and a half we can continue driving.
Along the way we have lunch for the last time with typical Georgian dishes: phkale and khachapuri.
Paravini Lake
We find an overnight stay at Lake Paravini, wonderfully quiet with only the visits of sheep and a beautiful starry sky at night.
This fisherman gets up early in the morning.
Vardzia Monastery
We couldn’t resist visiting another historical site before entering Turkey. We visit the cave city of Vardzia, founded by Queen Tamar in 1185. The monastery was built as protection against the Mongols and consisted of more than six thousand apartments on thirteen floors. When an earthquake in 1283 destroyed about two-thirds of the city, the caves became visible from the outside. We found the Church of the Assumption of Mary very special with beautiful murals.
Border crossing at Kartsakhi
The border crossing at Kartsakhi took about an hour, after we passed a mile-long line of trucks. Because we can only show our car insurance digitally, we are obliged to take out Turkish car insurance. This is only possible in cash. Unfortunately, the ATM fails and Gert Jan has to exchange euros at the insurance office. All this while I am waiting on the other side of the border and am already starting to wonder why Gert Jan and Milady are staying away for so long.
Finally we can drive further, across the border.